Belgrade, Serbia’s vibrant capital, is a city where history, culture, and hospitality blend seamlessly with hearty food traditions. In Episode 18 of Akis’ Food Tour (Season 3), celebrity chef Akis Petretzikis explored the city not through monuments or museums, but through kitchens, bakeries, and riverfront taverns. His journey is the perfect blueprint for travelers eager to taste Belgrade’s soul.
This guide follows the exact route Akis took — stop by stop — so you can recreate the same gastronomic adventure.
1.
Piatakia (Πιατάκια)
– Greek Meze in Zemun
📍 Novogradska 10, Zemun
Akis began in familiar territory: a Greek taverna tucked into Belgrade’s riverside neighborhood of Zemun. At Piatakia, he shared classic meze plates — warm pita bread with tzatziki, and eggplant baked with feta and tomato.
The visit highlights the deep bond between Greeks and Serbs; over 1.5 million Serbs vacation in Greece annually, and Greek flavors feel at home here. This is a great place to start your tour, easing into Belgrade with flavors you recognize, but in a warmly Serbian setting. Pair your meze with a crisp white wine before heading back into the city center.
2.
Tri Šešira (Три Шешира / “Three Hats”)
– Skadarlija’s Icon
📍 Skadarska 29, Skadarlija (Old Town)
Next stop: Skadarlija, Belgrade’s bohemian quarter. Cobblestones, street musicians, and the scent of grilled meats set the stage at Tri Šešira, an institution since 1864.
Akis ordered a traditional meze spread of ajvar (roasted red pepper relish), kajmak (clotted cream), cheeses, and cured meats — before moving on to beef tartare (tatar biftek) and the house pride: roast pork with crisp, golden crackling.
“This is the ultimate masterpiece,” he said of the pork, marveling at the crunchy skin and juicy meat. Tri Šešira is perfect for dinner with live tamburaši (folk musicians). Book ahead, and go hungry.
3.
Kafana Kod Dragana (Кафана Код Драгана)
– The Grill Master’s Spot
📍 Goce Delčeva 41, New Belgrade
At Kod Dragana, the atmosphere shifts to a true Serbian grill house. Everything revolves around the roštilj (charcoal grill). Akis sat with a Serbian–Greek couple, sampling smoky grilled meats slathered with kajmak on bread.
He also tried adventurous bites like fried brain (breaded and deep-fried) and oxtail stew, before washing it down with plum rakija (šljivovica). Rustic, hearty, and authentic — this is where Belgraders come for real grilled food.
4.
Suvenir (Сувенир)
– Floating Flavors on the Sava
📍 Savski nasip BB, Block 44, Novi Beograd
Belgrade is famous for its splavovi (floating restaurants), and Akis’ stop at Suvenir showcased why. Located on the Sava River, Suvenir pairs the serenity of riverside dining with bold Balkan–Mediterranean flavors.
He began with meze: ajvar, kajmak, cheeses, cured meats, and local wine, before moving on to a cleverly seared beef tartare and their specialty, roast pork with perfectly crisp skin.
Dinner here at sunset is magical — the river, the floating terrace, and plates that bridge Serbian and Mediterranean traditions.
5.
BAD RAMEN
– Belgrade’s Best Noodles
📍 Kneginje Ljubice 8, Dorćol
In Dorćol, Akis found something unexpected: ramen that rivals Tokyo. At BAD RAMEN (“Best Asian Dining”), chef Luiza Trisno simmered a 12-hour broth, dropped in handmade noodles, and finished with a marinated six-minute egg (soaked for two days in sake, ginger, and garlic).
Akis declared it the best ramen he’d ever tasted, praising the balance of flavors and soulful execution. The small ramen bar is lively, pet-friendly, and no-frills — the kind of place where the food speaks for itself.
6.
Zemun Market → Koordinata (Координата)
– Modern Market-Driven Dining
📍 Masarikov trg 17, Zemun
Zemun’s green market is a feast of cheeses, kajmak, peppers, and sausages. From here, Akis followed chef Stefan Živković into his bistro Koordinata, just steps from the market.
He tried two standout dishes:
- Chicken livers with red wine on brioche (silky, rich, perfectly cooked).
- Sour cabbage with smoked pork leg in sour cream sauce — dubbed the “Star of Koordinata.”
“These are humble ingredients elevated to gourmet,” Akis said, admiring the way emotion and tradition infused each plate. Zemun’s Austro-Hungarian charm and the Danube riverbank make it a must-visit stop.
7.
Pekara Spasa (Пекара Спаса)
– Belgrade’s Beloved Bakery
📍 Skadarska 26, Skadarlija
No Belgrade tour is complete without burek. At Pekara Spasa, Akis sampled plain burek, meat-filled burek, and paired it with drinkable Serbian yogurt.
He also tried goulash served in a hollowed bread loaf (lepinja) — rich, hearty, and perfect street food — plus a traditional Serbian apple pie.
He loved the crunch and uniqueness of the burek: “I’ve never eaten a pie like this.” Pekara Spasa is legendary, and you’ll likely queue, but it’s worth it.
8.
Restoran Rubin (Ресторан Рубин)
– Košutnjak’s Hidden Gem
📍 Kneza Višeslava 29, Košutnjak Park
High in Belgrade’s forested Košutnjak park, Akis visited family-run Rubin. The house specialty is pork neck (svinjski vrat) — pork meat and fat slow-cooked with onions, zucchini, and vegetables.
“This meat melts in your mouth,” he said, impressed at how such simple ingredients yielded extraordinary depth. With panoramic views and a legacy dating back to the owner’s grandparents, Rubin is a rewarding detour from the city center.
9.
Klub Književnika (Клуб књижевника / Writers’ Club)
– Literary Elegance
📍 Francuska 7, Stari Grad
Founded in the 1940s, Klub Književnika once hosted Yugoslavia’s great writers and poets. Today, under chef Branko Kisić, it offers fine dining with artful tasting menus.
Akis admitted the Michelin-style plating wasn’t his personal preference, but he respected the artistry and tradition. For travelers, this is a chance to dine in one of Belgrade’s most historic and refined restaurants, just steps from Republic Square.
10.
Mezestoran Dvorište (Мезестора́н Двориште)
– A Courtyard Farewell
📍 Svetogorska 46, Tašmajdan
Akis ended his tour in a leafy courtyard near Tašmajdan Park at Mezestoran Dvorište. This charming spot blends Greek and Serbian mezédes with a Mediterranean sensibility.
Though the episode didn’t list specific plates, the restaurant is known for seafood, Greek wines, and shared meze boards. It was a fitting finale: relaxed, sunlit, and connecting the flavors of Greece and Serbia once again.
Planning Your Belgrade Food Tour
Day 1 – Old Town & Skadarlija
- Piatakia (meze warm-up)
- Tri Šešira (bohemian dinner with music)
- Nightcap burek at Pekara Spasa
Day 2 – New Belgrade & Sava
- Kafana Kod Dragana (grill lunch)
- Suvenir (splav dinner on the river)
Day 3 – Dorćol & Zemun
- BAD RAMEN (noodle lunch)
- Zemun Market + Koordinata (gourmet local dinner)
Day 4 – Košutnjak & Farewell
- Restoran Rubin (forest-view lunch)
- Klub Književnika (fine-dining dinner)
- Mezestoran Dvorište (relaxed farewell meze)
Final Thoughts
Through roast pork and burek, ramen and kajmak, Akis showed that Belgrade is a city of contrasts: rustic grills next to refined clubs, floating splavovi alongside hidden bakeries, Balkan soul with Mediterranean warmth.
Follow his path, and you won’t just eat well — you’ll understand the spirit of Belgrade.
Prijatno! Καλή όρεξη! Enjoy your meal!
