A Foodie’s Guide to Belgrade: Following Akis’ Food Tour

Belgrade, Serbia’s vibrant capital, is a city where history, culture, and hospitality blend seamlessly with hearty food traditions. In Episode 18 of Akis’ Food Tour (Season 3), celebrity chef Akis Petretzikis explored the city not through monuments or museums, but through kitchens, bakeries, and riverfront taverns. His journey is the perfect blueprint for travelers eager to taste Belgrade’s soul.

This guide follows the exact route Akis took — stop by stop — so you can recreate the same gastronomic adventure.

1. 

Piatakia (Πιατάκια)

 – Greek Meze in Zemun

📍 Novogradska 10, Zemun

Akis began in familiar territory: a Greek taverna tucked into Belgrade’s riverside neighborhood of Zemun. At Piatakia, he shared classic meze plates — warm pita bread with tzatziki, and eggplant baked with feta and tomato.

The visit highlights the deep bond between Greeks and Serbs; over 1.5 million Serbs vacation in Greece annually, and Greek flavors feel at home here. This is a great place to start your tour, easing into Belgrade with flavors you recognize, but in a warmly Serbian setting. Pair your meze with a crisp white wine before heading back into the city center.

2. 

Tri Šešira (Три Шешира / “Three Hats”)

 – Skadarlija’s Icon

📍 Skadarska 29, Skadarlija (Old Town)

Next stop: Skadarlija, Belgrade’s bohemian quarter. Cobblestones, street musicians, and the scent of grilled meats set the stage at Tri Šešira, an institution since 1864.

Akis ordered a traditional meze spread of ajvar (roasted red pepper relish), kajmak (clotted cream), cheeses, and cured meats — before moving on to beef tartare (tatar biftek) and the house pride: roast pork with crisp, golden crackling.

“This is the ultimate masterpiece,” he said of the pork, marveling at the crunchy skin and juicy meat. Tri Šešira is perfect for dinner with live tamburaši (folk musicians). Book ahead, and go hungry.

3. 

Kafana Kod Dragana (Кафана Код Драгана)

 – The Grill Master’s Spot

📍 Goce Delčeva 41, New Belgrade

At Kod Dragana, the atmosphere shifts to a true Serbian grill house. Everything revolves around the roštilj (charcoal grill). Akis sat with a Serbian–Greek couple, sampling smoky grilled meats slathered with kajmak on bread.

He also tried adventurous bites like fried brain (breaded and deep-fried) and oxtail stew, before washing it down with plum rakija (šljivovica). Rustic, hearty, and authentic — this is where Belgraders come for real grilled food.

4. 

Suvenir (Сувенир)

 – Floating Flavors on the Sava

📍 Savski nasip BB, Block 44, Novi Beograd

Belgrade is famous for its splavovi (floating restaurants), and Akis’ stop at Suvenir showcased why. Located on the Sava River, Suvenir pairs the serenity of riverside dining with bold Balkan–Mediterranean flavors.

He began with meze: ajvar, kajmak, cheeses, cured meats, and local wine, before moving on to a cleverly seared beef tartare and their specialty, roast pork with perfectly crisp skin.

Dinner here at sunset is magical — the river, the floating terrace, and plates that bridge Serbian and Mediterranean traditions.

5. 

BAD RAMEN

 – Belgrade’s Best Noodles

📍 Kneginje Ljubice 8, Dorćol

In Dorćol, Akis found something unexpected: ramen that rivals Tokyo. At BAD RAMEN (“Best Asian Dining”), chef Luiza Trisno simmered a 12-hour broth, dropped in handmade noodles, and finished with a marinated six-minute egg (soaked for two days in sake, ginger, and garlic).

Akis declared it the best ramen he’d ever tasted, praising the balance of flavors and soulful execution. The small ramen bar is lively, pet-friendly, and no-frills — the kind of place where the food speaks for itself.

6. 

Zemun Market → Koordinata (Координата)

 – Modern Market-Driven Dining

📍 Masarikov trg 17, Zemun

Zemun’s green market is a feast of cheeses, kajmak, peppers, and sausages. From here, Akis followed chef Stefan Živković into his bistro Koordinata, just steps from the market.

He tried two standout dishes:

• Chicken livers with red wine on brioche (silky, rich, perfectly cooked).
• Sour cabbage with smoked pork leg in sour cream sauce — dubbed the “Star of Koordinata.”

“These are humble ingredients elevated to gourmet,” Akis said, admiring the way emotion and tradition infused each plate. Zemun’s Austro-Hungarian charm and the Danube riverbank make it a must-visit stop.

7. 

Pekara Spasa (Пекара Спаса)

 – Belgrade’s Beloved Bakery

📍 Skadarska 26, Skadarlija

No Belgrade tour is complete without burek. At Pekara Spasa, Akis sampled plain burek, meat-filled burek, and paired it with drinkable Serbian yogurt.

He also tried goulash served in a hollowed bread loaf (lepinja) — rich, hearty, and perfect street food — plus a traditional Serbian apple pie.

He loved the crunch and uniqueness of the burek: “I’ve never eaten a pie like this.” Pekara Spasa is legendary, and you’ll likely queue, but it’s worth it.

8. 

Restoran Rubin (Ресторан Рубин)

 – Košutnjak’s Hidden Gem

📍 Kneza Višeslava 29, Košutnjak Park

High in Belgrade’s forested Košutnjak park, Akis visited family-run Rubin. The house specialty is pork neck (svinjski vrat) — pork meat and fat slow-cooked with onions, zucchini, and vegetables.

“This meat melts in your mouth,” he said, impressed at how such simple ingredients yielded extraordinary depth. With panoramic views and a legacy dating back to the owner’s grandparents, Rubin is a rewarding detour from the city center.

9. 

Klub Književnika (Клуб књижевника / Writers’ Club)

 – Literary Elegance

📍 Francuska 7, Stari Grad

Founded in the 1940s, Klub Književnika once hosted Yugoslavia’s great writers and poets. Today, under chef Branko Kisić, it offers fine dining with artful tasting menus.

Akis admitted the Michelin-style plating wasn’t his personal preference, but he respected the artistry and tradition. For travelers, this is a chance to dine in one of Belgrade’s most historic and refined restaurants, just steps from Republic Square.

10. 

Mezestoran Dvorište (Мезестора́н Двориште)

 – A Courtyard Farewell

📍 Svetogorska 46, Tašmajdan

Akis ended his tour in a leafy courtyard near Tašmajdan Park at Mezestoran Dvorište. This charming spot blends Greek and Serbian mezédes with a Mediterranean sensibility.

Though the episode didn’t list specific plates, the restaurant is known for seafood, Greek wines, and shared meze boards. It was a fitting finale: relaxed, sunlit, and connecting the flavors of Greece and Serbia once again.

Planning Your Belgrade Food Tour

Day 1 – Old Town & Skadarlija

• Piatakia (meze warm-up)
• Tri Šešira (bohemian dinner with music)
• Nightcap burek at Pekara Spasa

Day 2 – New Belgrade & Sava

• Kafana Kod Dragana (grill lunch)
• Suvenir (splav dinner on the river)

Day 3 – Dorćol & Zemun

• BAD RAMEN (noodle lunch)
• Zemun Market + Koordinata (gourmet local dinner)

Day 4 – Košutnjak & Farewell

• Restoran Rubin (forest-view lunch)
• Klub Književnika (fine-dining dinner)
• Mezestoran Dvorište (relaxed farewell meze)

Final Thoughts

Through roast pork and burek, ramen and kajmak, Akis showed that Belgrade is a city of contrasts: rustic grills next to refined clubs, floating splavovi alongside hidden bakeries, Balkan soul with Mediterranean warmth.

Follow his path, and you won’t just eat well — you’ll understand the spirit of Belgrade.

Prijatno! Καλή όρεξη! Enjoy your meal!

New Beginnings and Ancient Sanctuaries: Our Spiritual Road Trip Through Serbia

Just days after our wedding bells rang in Belgrade on May 12, 2024, Tatjana and I, along with our kum and kuma, Nebojša and Jasna, kicked off an unforgettable road trip. We were all hyped to dive into some of Serbia’s most iconic spiritual sites, mixing ancient history with our fresh new beginnings.

Our first stop was Studenica Monastery. Nestled amidst lush forests, this UNESCO World Heritage site dates back to 1190 and is a cornerstone of Serbian spiritual life. The monastery’s grand white marble structure and stunning collection of 12th-century Byzantine art make it a symbol of the Serbian Orthodox Church’s resilience and faith. Wandering through its tranquil courtyards, we were struck by a sense of timelessness and continuity that resonated deeply with us all.

From there, we made our way to Mount Golija, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve known for its dense forests and diverse wildlife, including wolves and golden eagles. The pristine natural landscapes and the crisp mountain air were the perfect counterpoint to the ancient monastic life, offering us moments of serene reflection and a chance to spot some of Golija’s shy inhabitants.

The next morning, we headed to Gradac Monastery, hidden in a verdant valley and dating back to the late 13th century during the reign of King Uroš I. This lesser-known gem, with its harmonious blend of architectural beauty and natural surroundings, exudes a mystical aura. The sound of a nearby stream and the sight of intricate frescoes depicting saintly figures provided a peaceful backdrop for contemplation and conversation about the deep roots of our shared heritage.

After another magical night under the stars at Golija, our journey continued to Žiča Monastery. Its striking red façade has stood as a beacon of Serbian spirituality since the early 13th century. Founded by Saint Sava, the first Archbishop of the Serbian Orthodox Church, Žiča was the site where the first Serbian kings were crowned, intertwining its history with the very identity of Serbia. Walking through its vibrant halls, we felt a direct connection to those historical coronations and the profound impact they had on shaping the nation.

Each monastery offered a unique glimpse into Serbia’s rich history and spiritual tradition, and Mount Golija provided us with moments of natural beauty and quiet introspection. This trip wasn’t just a fun getaway; it was a profound exploration of our cultural roots and personal beginnings. It was the perfect way to start our married life, promising many more adventures ahead. If marriage is about journeys like this, we’re already liking it very much!

Saint Stephen: The First Christian Martyr and His Legacy in Serbian Tradition

Saint Stephen, known as the Protomartyr (first martyr), occupies a revered place in Christian history and Serbian culture. His life, marked by faith, courage, and service, serves as a timeless example of devotion. In Serbia, his feast day, celebrated on January 9, holds special significance, a day of both spiritual reflection and communal festivity.

  

The Life and Legacy of Saint Stephen

The name Stephen, derived from the Greek word stephanos meaning “crown,” is fitting for this saint who earned the “crown of martyrdom.” Saint Stephen was one of the first seven deacons chosen by the Apostles to assist in the early Christian Church. Tasked with distributing aid to the poor, particularly widows, he exemplified selflessness and compassion.

Beyond his charitable duties, Stephen was a powerful preacher and miracle worker, as documented in the Acts of the Apostles. His bold proclamations of faith, however, attracted opposition from various Jewish leaders. Accused of blasphemy, he was brought before the Sanhedrin, where he delivered a fearless speech condemning their resistance to God’s prophets and the Holy Spirit.

Enraged by his words, the crowd dragged Stephen outside Jerusalem and stoned him to death, making him the first Christian to die for his faith. Remarkably, as he faced death, he prayed for his executioners, saying, “Lord, do not hold this sin against them.” This act of forgiveness echoed Jesus’ words on the cross and underscored Stephen’s unwavering faith.

Saint Stephen’s legacy lives on as the patron saint of deacons, altar servers, and stonemasons. He is often depicted in religious art holding stones, a Gospel book, or a miniature church, symbolizing his martyrdom and faith.

Saint Stephen’s Slava in Serbian Tradition

In Serbian Orthodox Christianity, Stjepanjdan is celebrated on January 9 as part of the Christmas season. This day is also recognized as the first baptismal feast after Christmas, signifying renewal and spiritual rebirth.

Saint Stephen holds a special place in Serbian culture, with more than fifty Orthodox churches dedicated to him across the country. His feast day, often observed as a Slava (patron saint’s day) by Serbian families, is a time for prayer, feasting, and family gatherings. The Slava tradition, unique to Serbs, involves honoring the family’s patron saint with a special ritual, including the breaking of a Slava bread (known as kolač) and the lighting of a candle.

The celebration of Stjepanjdan reflects both religious devotion and the preservation of Serbian identity and tradition. Families come together to honor Saint Stephen’s memory, recount his story, and seek his blessings for the coming year.

Saint Stephen: A Symbol of Faith and Forgiveness

Saint Stephen’s life and martyrdom continue to inspire Christians worldwide. His unwavering faith in the face of persecution, his dedication to service, and his capacity for forgiveness are timeless virtues.

In Serbia, the celebration of Saint Stephen’s feast day as a Slava not only honors his legacy but also strengthens the bonds of faith, family, and community. For Serbs and Orthodox Christians, Saint Stephen remains a symbol of courage, compassion, and the enduring power of faith.

As we remember Saint Stephen on January 9, let us reflect on his life and the values he stood for, drawing inspiration from his example to live lives of service, love, and forgiveness.

Thank you!

Alcohol and Health: Debunking the Myths and Exploring the Facts

The relationship between alcohol and health has sparked debate for decades, with some studies touting the benefits of moderate consumption, particularly red wine, and others warning that even small amounts pose health risks. As research evolves, the consensus shifts toward a more cautious perspective regarding alcohol’s role in our lives.

Historically, moderate alcohol consumption, such as a small glass of red wine, has been linked to cardiovascular benefits. For example, studies tied to the Mediterranean diet suggest that light wine intake may reduce heart disease risk. Antioxidants like resveratrol in red wine are often credited with these potential effects. However, these benefits are not exclusive to alcohol and can also be derived from non-alcoholic sources like grapes and berries.

Recent findings challenge the notion that alcohol, even in moderation, is beneficial. Research from health organizations like the World Health Organization (WHO) emphasizes that no amount of alcohol is truly risk-free. Alcohol has been classified as a carcinogen, with even minimal consumption linked to higher risks of cancers such as breast and esophageal. A study in JAMA Network Open also found no significant mortality benefits from moderate drinking, particularly among older adults.

The risks of alcohol extend beyond cancer. Chronic use, even at low levels, can contribute to liver and heart diseases and impair brain health. While individual factors such as genetics and lifestyle can influence alcohol’s impact, it’s increasingly clear that any potential benefits are outweighed by the risks.

Health experts now advise individuals to limit or abstain from alcohol consumption. For those who choose to drink, moderation is key—defined as up to one drink per day for women and two for men by the CDC. However, the safest choice remains abstinence, particularly for those with pre-existing health conditions or a family history of alcohol-related diseases.

Ultimately, while the allure of a nightly glass of wine persists, understanding the broader health implications is essential. With healthier, non-alcoholic alternatives offering similar benefits, many are rethinking alcohol’s role in their wellness journey. In the end, it’s not about deprivation but making informed, mindful choices.

A Masterpiece Brought to Life: BBC’s War and Peace

Few literary works have ever captured the grandeur and complexity of human life as profoundly as Leo Tolstoy’s War and Peace. In BBC’s 2016 adaptation, this monumental novel is brought to life with stunning precision, care, and artistry. Having watched the series multiple times over the past three years, I am convinced it is one of the finest dramatizations of Tolstoy’s magnum opus ever produced, and it earns a perfect 10/10.

A Story Rich in Humanity and Depth

The foundation of this series lies, of course, in Tolstoy’s original story. The narrative weaves together a tapestry of human experiences: love, betrayal, courage, cowardice, ambition, and self-discovery, all set against the backdrop of one of history’s most turbulent periods—the Napoleonic Wars. The characters are so intricately developed, their relationships so vividly portrayed, that the story resonates on multiple levels. It explores morality and decadence, human weaknesses and strengths, and the eternal interplay between personal desires and societal expectations. Tolstoy’s ability to present these angles with such honesty is unmatched, and the BBC adaptation does justice to this brilliance.

Production: A Feast for the Senses

Every scene in this production is crafted to perfection. From the breathtaking cinematography to the intricate set designs, the attention to detail is extraordinary. The camera work deserves special praise for its ability to capture both the grandeur of sweeping historical events and the intimate emotional landscapes of the characters. The choice of locations is impeccable, with historical authenticity seamlessly blending into the narrative. Whether it’s the opulence of a Russian ballroom or the stark desolation of a battlefield, the visual storytelling adds layers of depth and intensity to the series.

Directing: Precision and Perfection

Under the masterful direction of Tom Harper, the series unfolds at a steady, engaging pace. Despite condensing Tolstoy’s sprawling novel into just six episodes, the story feels neither rushed nor overly dense. Every moment serves a purpose, leaving no room for empty or unnecessary scenes. Harper’s ability to maintain the balance between the epic scale of the narrative and the deeply personal arcs of the characters is a testament to his skill as a storyteller. This is a series that flows with seamless precision, each element working in harmony to create an unforgettable experience.

Performances: Acting at Its Finest

The cast of War and Peace is perfectly chosen, and their performances are a highlight of the series. Paul Dano as Pierre Bezukhov brings a mix of innocence, idealism, and existential struggle to his role, making his journey deeply moving. Lily James as Natasha Rostova captures the character’s youthful vivacity and later emotional turmoil with incredible authenticity. James Norton as Prince Andrei Bolkonsky portrays the brooding nobility and internal conflict of his character with remarkable depth. The supporting cast, from Tuppence Middleton as the manipulative Helene to Jim Broadbent as the strict yet vulnerable Prince Nikolai Bolkonsky, elevate the series even further. Each actor seems deeply immersed in their role, effortlessly embodying the complexities of their characters.

A Triumph of Adaptation

Adapting a literary giant like War and Peace for the screen is no small feat, but the BBC has achieved something truly remarkable. This production captures the spirit of Tolstoy’s novel while presenting it in a way that feels accessible and compelling for modern audiences. The historical accuracy, emotional resonance, and narrative cohesion make this series stand out as not just a faithful adaptation but a masterpiece in its own right.

Final Thoughts

BBC’s War and Peace is a work of art, a series that demonstrates the best of what television can offer. It is a visual and emotional journey that stays with the viewer long after the final scene. For fans of Tolstoy, historical dramas, or simply great storytelling, this series is an absolute must-watch. It exemplifies what can be achieved when every element of production—writing, direction, acting, cinematography, and design—is executed with passion and precision.

This adaptation of War and Peace is not just a series—it is an experience, one that I would rank among the top 10 I have ever seen. BBC’s adaptation deserves every accolade it receives and undoubtedly merits a 10/10 rating. It is a triumph of modern television and a timeless tribute to one of literature’s greatest works.